When we say Mallorca, we automatically think of sand, water, beaches and cocktails. But what about changing for a sport getaway on this Spanish island in the Mediterranean Sea? We headed there for the best rock climbing in Mallorca.
This post presents the climbing adventures of my partner and his 3 friends. Based on Rémi’s travel diary, I will narrate their adventures and make you discover some amazing spots for rock climbing in Mallorca. If you love nature, adventure and rock climbing, this article is for you.
Continue reading to discover where to stay, how to move around the island and more importantly, where to find the best climbing sites!
Best spots for rock climbing in Mallorca
Where to stay
We wanted to save some money by camping. The majority of travel guides mention only the camping site of Lluc Monastery, on the North of the island. Nonetheless, after some extra research, I have found three others using this website for camping. We stayed in The shelter Son Trias (Esporles), which is rather a mountain refuge than a camping site.
The ground was pretty hard because very dry, so I advise you to take a hammer to pitch your tent, or go find a big rock.
This was an easy choice. A transportation network is available in the cities, but since we stayed in the mountains for rock climbing activities, we rented a car.
We got up at 7:30 to go to the bakery and buy some ham for the lunch. We departed around 9:30 and arrived to the parking just before 10am. The climbing spot we are looking for are very close, so we start climb our first 4c (which is a top 50 in the guidebook) in sector Mario. Quite interesting for the view.
We move to another sector where we finish the warm up with a 5c and a 6a+. Then I do a 6b+ for my friends to try it top-rope, but I can’t finish it. It was an interesting route due to its little roof. After this I try a 6c+ but can’t finish it either in one try.
We picnic, then my friends sleep for a while in their hammocks. Energized after this break, I can finish my 6c+ from earlier. I’m warmed up for the 7a, but while climbing, I go on a wrong path and end up on a shabby 7a+. I try the crux 6 times before being able to finish it. Very well equipped route, though.
The highlight of the day was the teamwork for finishing the next route. Arthur goes on a 6a and puts the first three quickdraws, then he comes down. Hugo reaches a little farther and puts the fourth one, but fells before clipping the rope. After a quick pose, Arthur re-climbs and clips the rope on the fourth quickdraw, but fells and abandons it. Then again Hugo makes a little progress, but finally it’s Adrien that finishes the route within 3 essays. The name of this route was Ménage-à-trois.
2. Puig de Garrafa
We wake up at 7h30 and depart at 9h30 for Puig de Garrafa, pretty close to our stay. After almost half hour walk we reach the spot. We start climbing 5a, 5c, 6a+ and 6b+ routes until noon.
After a good nap, I finish a 6c+ and test some of the 7a routes after making sure not end up on another route like the previous day. And good thing I checked, because I was starting on a 6a instead of the 7a I wanted. After trying it few times, I decide to go on another 7a of 30 meters, listed top 50. I can’t climb it fluently, but nonetheless this route is magnificent: it passes through a cave, it has a slight overhang, and very good holds.
The most original spot for rock climbing in Mallorca is definitely Valdemossa area.
We warm up on a 5c, quite interesting due to its chimney. We continue on a 6a that crosses the wall diagonally. We meet some Swiss climbers and then we have to go to the car, ’cause it starts raining. We take advantage on that to have lunch.
After this break, some menacing clouds are still in the sky, but the rock seems dry.
Favourite 5c+ route
Climbing in this sector is interesting and fun. The belayer has to move away from the street each time a car passes. And as this was on a Saturday, the cars were passing regularly.
I particularly enjoyed this 5c+ route: steep overhang, huge holes, then climbing down in the middle of the street.
Scary, unequipped 7a route
In the afternoon I pick on a 7a and we find the Swiss climbers from earlier.
First move is very difficult. I fall on a crux at the fourth quickdraw, but keep on going. After a while I realize my stock of quickdraws is diminishing. Towards the end I place my last quickdraw, but the next point seems reachable. I reach it without difficulties and spot two quick links above. I don’t have any quickdraws to place. I climb on top of a little platform…
Here no belay stance in sight; only two screws remain. No belay stance, no tree, nothing nearby. I can’t un-climb this part, because I didn’t place a quickdraw. I find a place where’s a hole in the wall. I pass the rope in it and start descending. At the first belay stance I try to retrieve the cord, but it got stuck in that hole in the wall!!!
Luckily for me, one of the Swiss climbers finds a way up the cliff and frees my cord. Finally I can descend. Phew!
The 6b-that-is-not-a-6b route
When getting back to the car, the other two friends tell me the left 3 quickdraws on a 6b. Now I have to climb again. The route is difficult but feasible; it’s only normal for a 6b. At the fourth belay point it becomes reaaally difficult. I reach the fifth point and take another break. There are only minuscule holds on this slab climbing route, but I finally reach the last point. When my friends get me down, they confess it was actually a 7a route… Ha, ha, not fun, guys!!
So here it ends the adventure on rock climbing in Mallorca. For the moment! Yeah, because we also found some amazing water solo spots. And tested them. And leaped from a more than 7 meters altitude! Scary, adrenalinous af!